'Kalpvasis' brave chill, austerity in search of spiritual salvation at Maha Kumbh

Sexagenarian Rohini Jha from Bihar's Maithli region sleeps on the ground in her camp on the banks of the Sangam, wakes up early to take up a holy dip, and has one meal a day despite the biting cold.

The 68-year-old is performing Kalpvas -- a month-long practice of austerity and spiritual focus -- at the Maha Kumbh.

Stretching from Paush Purnima to Magh Purnima, Kalpvas has been a part of the region's spiritual heritage for centuries. The tradition is highlighted in various Vedic texts, including the Mahabharata and the Ramcharitmanas, showcasing its deep-rooted significance in Hindu spirituality.

Jha is among more than 10 lakh devotees performing Kalpvas at the Maha Kumbh.

On her 11th Kalpvas, Jha said her first was when she was four years old, accompanying her mother and father during their Kalpvas.

"It is considered auspicious to perform at least 12 Kalpvas. The rituals begin with the devotees' arrival at the Sangam where they set up their temporary tents. This is the maiden step in this spiritual journey," she told PTI.

"The devotees move away from all the comforts of home and lead a simple lifestyle, symbolising detachment from material possessions," she added.

Jha is accompanied by seven members of her family, all senior citizens also on their Kalpvas -- a practice she called "living in pain".

"It is believed the more pain or difficulty you face during Kaplvas, the more successful it is… You feel closer to God and free from pleasures as well as concerns of life," she said.

"When I was young, I would sleep on the sand. Now, since I am old, I place a bedding on the sand. The rules of Kalpvas are strict but people now follow them flexibly… It is the thought that matters," she added.

Throughout the day, she takes at least two holy dips at the Sangam -- the confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati rivers -- and prays regularly.

The Kalpvasis forsake modern comforts to reside in temporary tents near the Sangam. Their daily routine includes holy dips, attending spiritual discourses and listening to devotional music -- aimed at fostering spiritual growth and inner purification.

Family members and friends also visit the Kalpvasis to take blessings and be a part of the ritual, even though they cannot stay the entire month and follow the strict routine.

"Kalpvas usually starts by planting bananas, tulsi and barley. We are supposed to observe fast and adopt a disciplined lifestyle," said Shivanand Pandey (51).

A lawyer, he takes a month's break from his practice for Kalpvas.

Explaining the tradition, he said, "Kalpvasis take a pledge to camp on the chilly banks of the Sangam, devoting themselves strictly to religious activities and bathing thrice in the cold but sacred waters, following the principles of patience, non-violence and devotion, besides austerity."

"This tradition needs to be followed for 12 years non-stop for the pledge to be fulfilled," he added.

His wife Neha Pandey, who has completed 12 Kalpvas and now accompanies her husband, said she didn't take the pledge this time due to health reasons.

"But I visit every time with my husband. It is also auspicious to perform 'seva' for a Kalpvasi. A significant ritual of Kalpvasis is the dawn dip at the Sangam that is believed to cleanse both the body and the soul. It is considered highly auspicious during various astrological alignments, known as Kumbh Snan," she said.

"Devotees believe that taking a dip during this time in the sacred water absolves them of all sins, leading to salvation," she added.

Maha Kumbh, a mega-religious event organised every 12 years, is being held in Prayagraj from January 13 and will continue for 45 days. More than seven crore pilgrims have so far taken a holy dip at the Sangam.

Mahakumbh Nagar Additional District Magistrate Vivek Chaturvedi said more than 15 lakh Kalpvasis were expected.

"Most Kalpvasis are accompanied by at least two or three people. We have made arrangements to ensure that they do not face problems. The majority of Kalpvasis are associated with some seer or religious organisation and stay in tents arranged in their guru's camp but there are families who make their own arrangements and we provide them the support," he told PTI.

A seasoned Kalpvasi, 75-year-old Gopal Nuniwal has witnessed the evolution of the Kumbh -- from the increasing number of pilgrims to the tent city's changing landscape.

"Yet, the essence of Kalpvas remains unchanged. It is not an event but a way of life. It's a time to reconnect with one's inner self and the divine," he said.

For the Sharma family from Ballia, Kalpvas is a tradition passed down through generations.

"It's an annual coming together of three generations, setting up the tent in the familiar vicinity of the Ganga. The elders share tales of Kalpvas from their youth while the younger ones imbibe these stories and the essence of the rituals," said VK Sharma.

The family's days are a blend of individual and collective activities.

"We take holy dips, engage in community service and spend the evenings around a small fire, discussing life and philosophy. The children, though initially reluctant, gradually found themselves drawn to the rhythm of Kalpvas, learning about patience, resilience and spirituality," Sharma said.